On Wednesday, Milena and I met up in Sofia at 10:30 (as planned) in order to catch the 11:30 bus down to Thessaloníki. The problem? Everyone and their grandmother was trying to get down at the same time (what with Thursday being International Worker's Day). Thus, there were no tickets to be had. In addition, the next available tickets for Wednesday would have put us in Greece well after dark - for obvious reasons, we both wanted to make sure we got there during daylight hours. Accordingly, we headed back to Dupnitsa to stay at my place (after purchasing tickets for a 9 AM bus the next day).
We had been told to show up a half an hour early for the bus, so we woke up early on Thursday to catch the 5:42 to Sofia. This is supposed to be a fast train (and was correspondingly pricier). It showed up 20 minutes late and (because of various random stops) took about 40 minutes longer than it probably should have. The upshot of all of this was that we were both somewhat stressed when we arrived, slightly out of breath, at the bus station.
Turns out there was no need to worry, but when you're stuck on a train, unsure of when it'll actually get in and on an ever-tightening deadline, it's hard to remain perfectly calm.
The bus ride itself was long, punctuated by stopping for lunch and a queue at the border.
The first thing I noticed about getting further south was the existence of little clumps of poppies. They started showing up about 30 km (or so) from the border, and only increased the further we went. Almost as soon as we crossed over, I noticed changes in soil composition. It was almost as abrupt as crossing into southern Georgia - suddenly, the land was tan; sandy and dotted with yellow and red flowers throughout. As ubiquitous as the poppies were the olive trees. It's stereotypical, but it's also true. Grape vines, poppies, pine and olive trees and a mountainous landscape that feels ancient. You really get the sense that one people have been living here for thousands of years, mostly uninterrupted.
Upon arrival in Thessaloníki, we made reservations for our return trip and asked where we needed to go in order to get to Asprovalta. One extraneous cab ride (and €10) later, we got to the proper bus station (having been given the wrong station the first time).
Waiting at the station:
Once the bus got to Asprovalta, I kept an eye out for the place where we were supposed to be staying, without success. The bus was about to leave town when we asked them to stop, as the place was certainly supposed to be in town. Fortunately, there was someone who spoke a bit of English at the place where we stopped, and they put us in touch with a local hotel owner offered her help.
...Turns out that the place where I thought we were supposed to stay was completely unknown to any of the locals, leaving us with a dilemma: we had nowhere to stay, most of the town was booked, night was fast approaching and we were both exhausted. Maria (who runs the Assamaris hotel) talked to the owners of the Litsa House just up the street, made sure they had a room, told them give us the low season rate (it's currently the mid season) and told us we could stop by for breakfast (€5.50/person, but still).
Here's where we ended up staying:
And the view down the street on which we were staying:
After a much-needed night's sleep, we went and got breakfast at Assamaris; fruit, break with cheese, granola, juice and coffee. It was taken on the lawn, in the sun - an auspicious start to the day. We followed it up with wandering around for a bit, to get a sense of the town's layout.
First, the beach:
You can see the church of Agios Georgios (St. George, or Άγιος Γεώργιος for you purists) in the background, here:
Yours truly:
I love the layered effect of the mountains, here:
Some shots of Milena:
And some poppies:
This house really caught our attention:
And someone clearly has a sense of humor, here:
We went to check out the church (also called Agios Georgios), but didn't go in immediately (improperly dressed):
Milena and I:
Orange trees were a pretty common sight:
We went back to the hotel, changed, and actually went to really enjoy the beach (as opposed to just sort of wandering about). The water, as you can see from the pictures up there a ways, is a rich blue/blue-green and wonderfully clear. It's also freaking COLD. At this point, the suns of summer have not yet warmed the Aegean, so it's a wee bit nippy. Needless to say, this did not stop me from enjoying myself. Even Milena (who can't swim) jumped in a bit. Granted, I had to help her, but she still got in. I helped her float a little bit, so with time, I might be able to help her get over her fear of water/drowning. After a few hours, the wind started getting to us - it was maybe 25 C (77 F), so, while pleasant, it wasn't hot by any means. A shower, a nap and a change of clothes later, we were back out, enjoying a walk along the beach:
Obviously, since I was the one with the camera, I'm absent from most of these pictures. We also discovered a small church/shrine dedicated to (translated) "The Metamorphosis/Transfiguration of the Savior" along with a nice little meditative area. Naturally, we lingered for a whiles:
Afterwards, we decided to pick up dinner. The hotel room had cooking implements (albeit somewhat limited) and a stove, so I offered to cook. It was a fairly simple affair - tarator (cucumber yogurt soup, flavored with dill and garlic) and herb potatoes, along with some white wine. Well, at least it was, until the power cut out.
For whatever reason, the power to our room shut off. A bit alarmed, we went to try to find the owners, unsuccessfully. We asked the other guests (who turned out to be mostly Bulgarian) as to their location, only to find them as clueless as we were. I went back to dealing with supper, Milena went to track them down (since she was a better candidate for rounding up assistance from the other Bulgarian guests), and discovered that the entire bottom floor was without power. After the owners were located, power was quickly restored; we ate and cleaned up.
Following that, tired and happy, we went for a short walk, and then to bed.
Having decided that we'd go check out the church after breakfast, we did just that:
Obviously, I couldn't take pictures of the interior, since they really frown on that sort of thing. It was a jewel box, though. Typical of most Orthodox churches, the walls were covered in iconography and biblical scenes. There was also a great deal of gilt-work. Following a walk to areas previously unexplored (including past the local cemetery), there was more beach time:
I loves me some panoramic shots:
More Milena/beach shots:
As before, after beach time, we were a bit hungry, so we went to get dinner. This time, I decided to do something a bit fancier - shrimp with wine lemon cream sauce over farfalle, garnished with lemon and dill, accompanied by white wine and bread. I'd never tried anything of the sort, but it came out pretty well:
Later, we went for another walk and spent some time watching the water, as well as a bat go for various bugs. It got amazingly close to use at several points, but a) I didn't have my camera on me, and b) I'm not sure it's fast enough to reliably capture something as fast-/erratically-moving as a bat.
Still, another nice capstone to another nice day.
Instead of eating at Assamaris for breakfast again, we had some pastries that Milena had picked up the previous evening while I was cooking (no pictures, but they were tasty). I really wish I were better at working with filo pastry, because I do so enjoy the pastries of Asia Minor and surrounding areas (mmmm, baklava...)
After bit of a tiff (I'll elaborate later) we took another trip to the church and wandered in silence for a little whiles. In the meantime, we found the amphitheater (well, more like actually went to check it out, since it's right next to the tiny church of the Metamorphosis).
From the perspective of the audience:
From the actors' perspective:
Milena loves palm trees, therefore, I took many pictures of her with them (obviously):
This house had so many kitschy things on the lawn, etc., that I had to take a couple pictures:
I have no idea what this plant is (cactus or emerging palm tree, or what, but it's pretty massive):
Tiny little lemon tree:
And further illustration of the clarity and beauty of the water:
There was no swimming (since there was no hot water, for whatever reason), but we did go out and get some sun. I neglected to put sunscreen on my torso, so I got slightly burned, but nothing too serious.
After a long talk to resolve the lingering tension between us, we went to get money to pay for the hotel (the next day) and dinner (that night), only to get caught in a sudden afternoon downpour. Milena had a problem with one of her cards (which alarmed and frustrated her), so I stepped up to cover (I'll admit, I like being able to do this occasionally).
After we changed shoes, we went for another walk in the hopes of finding a decent restaurant. Before we hit the beach strip, though, I took a bunch of pictures of the sunset:
And a couple of wildflower shots:
We got dinner at a nice little place that serves pretty damn good traditional food, and wasn't too pricey (relatively speaking, anyway) either. We split tzatziki, feta and politiki; she got midopilafo (mussels with rice), I got soutzoukakia (spiced meat patties in tomato sauce). There was also homemade bread, water, and ouzo. All in all, rather delicious (and extremely filling).
We woke up fairly early, since we wanted to catch the 10 AM bus back to Thessaloníki. We were also wanted to get breakfast at a cafe, for the sake of doing so. Once we'd checked out of the hotel and eaten, we went to the bus station, even though we had something like 45 minutes left. Rather than sit and wait the whole time, we went down to get one last look at the beach:
It turned out that we had just about perfect timing, since it was threatening rain (and sporadically raining) the whole morning we left Asprovalta. Once we got back to Thessaloníki and finally tracked down a cab to the train station, we still had about 3 hours to kill, so we checked our stuff at the station and went wandering.
...It's a wonderful way to pass the time in a new city.
We managed to stumble onto the Chinese import/export district (which was a little surreal), passed by a bazaar (of sorts) filled with what appeared to be mostly camping/survivalist gear, and found a decent little place for lunch. Greek salad, gyros, and beer (for me) and iced coffee (for her) - good times. Gyros are so much better than Bulgarian döners (at least in terms of richness), and I can tell I'll be missing them. I suspect it's largely because Greek pita is thicker/richer and they use meat other than chicken. Regardless, it was incredibly tasty and filling.
After lunch, we stopped by a church nearby the rail station - we would have gone in, but it was chained shut, since they were doing some sort of renovation in the back, I think. It might have been Agios Dimitrios, but I somehow doubt it (kinda wish I hadn't left my camera in the station).
The bus ride back was much less stressful, as the border queue was practically nonexistent. We still didn't get back to Sofia until about 9:15 (which meant that I had about an hour and a half to wait for my train back home), and Milena had another minor freakout when none of the ATMs in the bus station worked. Fortunately, she had time to run to the train station (while I safeguarded her luggage) to get the cash to get home. We spent the next half-hour enjoying each other's company and trying to figure out when we'd get to see each other again before saying goodbye as she got on the bus back to Ruse.
For my part, I caught the train back with no issues, got back home shortly before 1 AM, and passed out in fairly short order.
Today has been a low-key sorta day, and I like that. Tomorrow, it's back to the grind (but only for 7 more weeks), then summer vacation.
Life, as they say, is good.
Later, flipsiders.
No comments:
Post a Comment