Today was a mixed bag. So was the whole of this week, actually. On the upside, I got to talk about Robert Frost with my seniors today, and they actually participated in discussion and analysis of it, to my surprise and delight.
Which segues into the point of this entry. Robert Frost is probably my favorite poet, certainly of the early 20th century. T.S. Eliot is amazing, and e.e. cummings was groundbreaking, but there is something about Frost's work that really resonates with me. "The Road Not Taken" is the quintessential Fall poem, and the bittersweetness of it sets me thinking about life and all the myriad steps that lead up to the present moment. It's this sort of ode to the "What If" game, while at the same time, accepting the results from decisions made, without trying to return to a point in the past which is irrevocably lost.
At the same time, there's this guarded optimism about the choice made; the options have been weighed, everything considered, and a decision is reached. There's no real second-guessing, just this sense of "well, if I get the chance, I'll get back to this." Given my apparently congenital inability to let go of things, this is something to which I aspire.
I know you've all read the poem, but it bears posting, I think:
TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;
Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,
And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
Later, flipsiders.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Open Up A Can of Tomato Juice
Gather round, boys and girls, Uncle Alex has another fun story for you.
Last night, a bunch of Volunteers were in town for their mid-service conference. I had dinner with them, and afterwards, they invited me to come out and have a few drinks with them. I agreed, and so we headed out. We're drinking, being loud Americans, etc., and a former student of mine comes up to me, says hi.
Now, this would not be awkward, except there was a girl that came over with him to say "hi" as well. She introduced herself as the daughter of one of my colleagues. She then proceeded to hit on me. And then crossed the bar to do so a couple more times over the course of the evening.
Yeah, that was awkward.
I mean, as amusing as it is, I would rather prefer to avoid the "oh, by the way, I made out/slept with your daughter" awkwardness in the staffroom that that would entail, but that may just be me (assuming she's even over 18 in the first place).
Later, flipsiders.
Last night, a bunch of Volunteers were in town for their mid-service conference. I had dinner with them, and afterwards, they invited me to come out and have a few drinks with them. I agreed, and so we headed out. We're drinking, being loud Americans, etc., and a former student of mine comes up to me, says hi.
Now, this would not be awkward, except there was a girl that came over with him to say "hi" as well. She introduced herself as the daughter of one of my colleagues. She then proceeded to hit on me. And then crossed the bar to do so a couple more times over the course of the evening.
Yeah, that was awkward.
I mean, as amusing as it is, I would rather prefer to avoid the "oh, by the way, I made out/slept with your daughter" awkwardness in the staffroom that that would entail, but that may just be me (assuming she's even over 18 in the first place).
Later, flipsiders.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
I Know Where You Go When You Want To Fall
While traveling today, I happened to pass a field of sunflowers. Over the past few months, I've passed it many times. In the spring, when they were just emerging, in the summer, when they formed a joyous cacophony of yellow and now in fall, when they formed a darkening procession of mourners, lamenting the passing of life and time. In a few weeks, they will crumble to dust, leaving no trace of their existence until next spring, and their cycle begins anew.
The whole scene was obviously rather melancholy, with the skies supplying tears for the botanical funeral procession. It was also appropriate, I feel, since I have just completed what is most likely my last summer in Bulgaria. With nine and a half months to go before I have to resume the "normal" course of my life, it feels like I've entered a season of endings. There is still much to be done, though, and I'll doubtless be kept too busy to really dwell overmuch on this sort of thing. After all, I have to get everything in order for the life-reboot.
I suppose it's just one of those things that you have to occasionally step back and watch: the passage of time and your position in it. Much like the sunflowers, we have our own cyclical nature; birth, production, decay, gestation/reflection, repeat. While we may not be as punctual or predictable as they are, it's still worth bearing in mind.
Later, flipsiders.
The whole scene was obviously rather melancholy, with the skies supplying tears for the botanical funeral procession. It was also appropriate, I feel, since I have just completed what is most likely my last summer in Bulgaria. With nine and a half months to go before I have to resume the "normal" course of my life, it feels like I've entered a season of endings. There is still much to be done, though, and I'll doubtless be kept too busy to really dwell overmuch on this sort of thing. After all, I have to get everything in order for the life-reboot.
I suppose it's just one of those things that you have to occasionally step back and watch: the passage of time and your position in it. Much like the sunflowers, we have our own cyclical nature; birth, production, decay, gestation/reflection, repeat. While we may not be as punctual or predictable as they are, it's still worth bearing in mind.
Later, flipsiders.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
If They Say "Take It And Like It," You'll Do It
The system worked as they said it would, and I have my schedule today. Unlike previous semesters, I have no days completely off. Schedule is as follows:
Monday
7:30-8:15 - IXa
Tuesday
7:30-9:10 - XIa
10:25-11:10 - VIIIb
11:20-13:00 - XIIb
13:10-13:55 - IXa
Wednesday
7:30-9:10 - XIIa
Thursday
7:30-10:05 - VIIIb
11:20-13:00 - XIb
Friday
7:30-9:10 - IXb
10:25-11:10 - XIIa
11:20-12:05 - VIIIb
As you can see, Tuesdays are going to be... less than fun. Having to wake up at 6:30 every day, on the one hand, will not be fun. On the other hand, having a regular wake-up time will probably be more conducive to long-term productivity. Only time will tell, I'm sure.
Later, flipsiders.
Monday
7:30-8:15 - IXa
Tuesday
7:30-9:10 - XIa
10:25-11:10 - VIIIb
11:20-13:00 - XIIb
13:10-13:55 - IXa
Wednesday
7:30-9:10 - XIIa
Thursday
7:30-10:05 - VIIIb
11:20-13:00 - XIb
Friday
7:30-9:10 - IXb
10:25-11:10 - XIIa
11:20-12:05 - VIIIb
As you can see, Tuesdays are going to be... less than fun. Having to wake up at 6:30 every day, on the one hand, will not be fun. On the other hand, having a regular wake-up time will probably be more conducive to long-term productivity. Only time will tell, I'm sure.
Later, flipsiders.
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
I Find My Way To Do That Same Old Jam
Wow. Less than a week to go before classes start again. Then, I will have most of a week of going through the same song and dance over and over again as I let returning students know about classroom policy changes and new students find out about who I am and what they can expect from me.
On tap for this year:
12a - Modern English Lit (4 hrs/week)
12b - Advanced/Superadvanced Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
11a - Intermediate Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
11b - Advanced Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
9a - Pre-Intermediate Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
9b - Intermediate Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
8b - Beginning Grammar/Conversation (5 hrs/week)
Hopefully, I'll have my actual teaching schedule tomorrow, but I wouldn't be entirely surprised if I had to wait until Thursday. Regardless, once class actually starts, I suspect things will be a whirlwind of activity that leaves me largely drained by the end of the day.
...Hey, it beats sitting around doing nothing. Also, once school starts, I'll have more crazy cross-cultural hijinks to share. Something to look forward to, to be certain.
Later, flipsiders.
On tap for this year:
12a - Modern English Lit (4 hrs/week)
12b - Advanced/Superadvanced Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
11a - Intermediate Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
11b - Advanced Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
9a - Pre-Intermediate Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
9b - Intermediate Grammar/Conversation (2 hrs/week)
8b - Beginning Grammar/Conversation (5 hrs/week)
Hopefully, I'll have my actual teaching schedule tomorrow, but I wouldn't be entirely surprised if I had to wait until Thursday. Regardless, once class actually starts, I suspect things will be a whirlwind of activity that leaves me largely drained by the end of the day.
...Hey, it beats sitting around doing nothing. Also, once school starts, I'll have more crazy cross-cultural hijinks to share. Something to look forward to, to be certain.
Later, flipsiders.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Make A Hole With A Gun Perpendicular
Thursday, August 7, 2008
I Like Pleasure Spiked With Pain
One of the worst parts of the post-breakup period (for me, anyway) is the fact that WinAmp (or whatever music program you use) seems to have this unerring tendency to play songs that trigger relationship nostalgia.
Case in point: "Enjoy the Silence (Depeche Mode) followed by "Accidentally in Love" (Counting Crows) followed by "Sound of Your Voice" (BareNaked Ladies).
I really dislike the fact that certain songs take on special emotional significance, sometimes. That is all.
Later, flipsiders.
Case in point: "Enjoy the Silence (Depeche Mode) followed by "Accidentally in Love" (Counting Crows) followed by "Sound of Your Voice" (BareNaked Ladies).
I really dislike the fact that certain songs take on special emotional significance, sometimes. That is all.
Later, flipsiders.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Lay Your Weary Head To Rest
Well. That was an unexpected and unpleasant end to an otherwise nice week.
Long story short: A week ago, Milena got here for an extended visit. Last night, she and I ended things.
...This morning was kinda awkward.
I wish it could have worked out differently, but I don't see how. I suppose I could have proposed to her, but I'm nowhere near ready to make that commitment, even if she was dropping all sorts of hints that that's what she wanted.
As previously mentioned, she wants a family and kids. A lot. Again, as previously mentioned, I am not in a place to make that sort of step, yet. Add to the mix the long-distance thing, and we combine that with the uncertainty of the whole situation (with less than a year to go before a final decision would have to be made one way or another), and it was really hurting her.
So, we talked it out, and even though we both love each other, the situation just wasn't sustainable, and wasn't likely to change. That didn't make watching her walk out the door this morning any easier.
Per usual, I'll deal with it, even if I'm not happy about it.
Later, flipsiders.
Long story short: A week ago, Milena got here for an extended visit. Last night, she and I ended things.
...This morning was kinda awkward.
I wish it could have worked out differently, but I don't see how. I suppose I could have proposed to her, but I'm nowhere near ready to make that commitment, even if she was dropping all sorts of hints that that's what she wanted.
As previously mentioned, she wants a family and kids. A lot. Again, as previously mentioned, I am not in a place to make that sort of step, yet. Add to the mix the long-distance thing, and we combine that with the uncertainty of the whole situation (with less than a year to go before a final decision would have to be made one way or another), and it was really hurting her.
So, we talked it out, and even though we both love each other, the situation just wasn't sustainable, and wasn't likely to change. That didn't make watching her walk out the door this morning any easier.
Per usual, I'll deal with it, even if I'm not happy about it.
Later, flipsiders.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
I Was Alone, I Took A Ride
Lately, I've been running around all over this corner of the country, dealing with various paperwork things, medical issues, that sort of thing. In the process, I've rediscovered the meditative effect of travel time. When you're on public transit, and especially trains, there's a certain rhythm as the wheels move, as the seat bounces in time with the road or track. The landscape streams by, the sun moves across the sky, and you have a chance to focus on the scenery and reflect on life.
Yesterday, in particular, made something clear to me: my life is meaningless without understanding. Every day, I learn a little bit more about myself, and a little more about the world, and how I see my place in it. Above all, I need the freedom to explore, mentally, physically and metaphysically. If I can find people to explore with me, all to the better. If not, then I'm better off just striking my own path and relating what happens.
The ancients were on to the right idea when they declared that words have power. Not power in the superhero "I can now defy physics" sense or in the political sense, but rather power in the gnostic sense of things. To name a thing is to place a cognitive framework around it, to make the unknowable a bit more knowable. You make the previously uncharted reaches more accessible. That thrill of understanding is what I live for. This is why I want to study linguistics and cognitive science in greater detail. If we accept that words are the currency of knowledge, then I want to work in the mental mines, extracting pure understanding from the labyrinthine corridors of consciousness.
It all sounds a bit overly dramatic, I know. That doesn't change what I see as the fundamental truth of the matter. I'm on a journey of understanding, and whatever side-stops or detours I make, the ultimate goal remains the same.
Later, flipsiders.
Yesterday, in particular, made something clear to me: my life is meaningless without understanding. Every day, I learn a little bit more about myself, and a little more about the world, and how I see my place in it. Above all, I need the freedom to explore, mentally, physically and metaphysically. If I can find people to explore with me, all to the better. If not, then I'm better off just striking my own path and relating what happens.
The ancients were on to the right idea when they declared that words have power. Not power in the superhero "I can now defy physics" sense or in the political sense, but rather power in the gnostic sense of things. To name a thing is to place a cognitive framework around it, to make the unknowable a bit more knowable. You make the previously uncharted reaches more accessible. That thrill of understanding is what I live for. This is why I want to study linguistics and cognitive science in greater detail. If we accept that words are the currency of knowledge, then I want to work in the mental mines, extracting pure understanding from the labyrinthine corridors of consciousness.
It all sounds a bit overly dramatic, I know. That doesn't change what I see as the fundamental truth of the matter. I'm on a journey of understanding, and whatever side-stops or detours I make, the ultimate goal remains the same.
Later, flipsiders.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
It's Ten 'Til Two And I've Got A Thing To Do
Woo. Independence Day, again. I get to celebrate by going to get my paperwork to stay in this country renewed. Afterward, my sitemate and I will be having our own little 4th of July thing (complete with massive amounts of grilling). Life, overall, is good.
In honor of the 4th, here's some Muppets. Enjoy:
Later, flipsiders.
In honor of the 4th, here's some Muppets. Enjoy:
Later, flipsiders.
Friday, May 23, 2008
And, Of Course, Henry The Horse Dances The Waltz
Surreal moment of the day:
I was calling roll today, and one of the students wasn't there. When I asked where she was, the other students told me: "Oh, she's married."
...This is in one of my 9th grade classes.
Later, flipsiders.
I was calling roll today, and one of the students wasn't there. When I asked where she was, the other students told me: "Oh, she's married."
...This is in one of my 9th grade classes.
Later, flipsiders.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
I'm So Colonel Klink Oblivious
Very little of interest has happened this weekend, so instead of a real weekend update, here's a picture of the kittens that live under my stairs:
Later, flipsiders
Later, flipsiders
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Good News Will Work Its Way To All Them Plans
As previously mentioned, I just got back from my extended weekend holiday. Overall, the trip was awesome, but well, it wouldn't be me if there hadn't been some hiccups and blips throughout.
The saga begins!
On Wednesday, Milena and I met up in Sofia at 10:30 (as planned) in order to catch the 11:30 bus down to Thessaloníki. The problem? Everyone and their grandmother was trying to get down at the same time (what with Thursday being International Worker's Day). Thus, there were no tickets to be had. In addition, the next available tickets for Wednesday would have put us in Greece well after dark - for obvious reasons, we both wanted to make sure we got there during daylight hours. Accordingly, we headed back to Dupnitsa to stay at my place (after purchasing tickets for a 9 AM bus the next day).
We had been told to show up a half an hour early for the bus, so we woke up early on Thursday to catch the 5:42 to Sofia. This is supposed to be a fast train (and was correspondingly pricier). It showed up 20 minutes late and (because of various random stops) took about 40 minutes longer than it probably should have. The upshot of all of this was that we were both somewhat stressed when we arrived, slightly out of breath, at the bus station.
Turns out there was no need to worry, but when you're stuck on a train, unsure of when it'll actually get in and on an ever-tightening deadline, it's hard to remain perfectly calm.
The bus ride itself was long, punctuated by stopping for lunch and a queue at the border.
Arrival in Greece
The first thing I noticed about getting further south was the existence of little clumps of poppies. They started showing up about 30 km (or so) from the border, and only increased the further we went. Almost as soon as we crossed over, I noticed changes in soil composition. It was almost as abrupt as crossing into southern Georgia - suddenly, the land was tan; sandy and dotted with yellow and red flowers throughout. As ubiquitous as the poppies were the olive trees. It's stereotypical, but it's also true. Grape vines, poppies, pine and olive trees and a mountainous landscape that feels ancient. You really get the sense that one people have been living here for thousands of years, mostly uninterrupted.
Upon arrival in Thessaloníki, we made reservations for our return trip and asked where we needed to go in order to get to Asprovalta. One extraneous cab ride (and €10) later, we got to the proper bus station (having been given the wrong station the first time).
Waiting at the station:
Getting to Asprovalta
Once the bus got to Asprovalta, I kept an eye out for the place where we were supposed to be staying, without success. The bus was about to leave town when we asked them to stop, as the place was certainly supposed to be in town. Fortunately, there was someone who spoke a bit of English at the place where we stopped, and they put us in touch with a local hotel owner offered her help.
...Turns out that the place where I thought we were supposed to stay was completely unknown to any of the locals, leaving us with a dilemma: we had nowhere to stay, most of the town was booked, night was fast approaching and we were both exhausted. Maria (who runs the Assamaris hotel) talked to the owners of the Litsa House just up the street, made sure they had a room, told them give us the low season rate (it's currently the mid season) and told us we could stop by for breakfast (€5.50/person, but still).
Here's where we ended up staying:
And the view down the street on which we were staying:
Day 1
After a much-needed night's sleep, we went and got breakfast at Assamaris; fruit, break with cheese, granola, juice and coffee. It was taken on the lawn, in the sun - an auspicious start to the day. We followed it up with wandering around for a bit, to get a sense of the town's layout.
First, the beach:
You can see the church of Agios Georgios (St. George, or Άγιος Γεώργιος for you purists) in the background, here:
Yours truly:
I love the layered effect of the mountains, here:
Some shots of Milena:
And some poppies:
This house really caught our attention:
And someone clearly has a sense of humor, here:
We went to check out the church (also called Agios Georgios), but didn't go in immediately (improperly dressed):
Milena and I:
Orange trees were a pretty common sight:
We went back to the hotel, changed, and actually went to really enjoy the beach (as opposed to just sort of wandering about). The water, as you can see from the pictures up there a ways, is a rich blue/blue-green and wonderfully clear. It's also freaking COLD. At this point, the suns of summer have not yet warmed the Aegean, so it's a wee bit nippy. Needless to say, this did not stop me from enjoying myself. Even Milena (who can't swim) jumped in a bit. Granted, I had to help her, but she still got in. I helped her float a little bit, so with time, I might be able to help her get over her fear of water/drowning. After a few hours, the wind started getting to us - it was maybe 25 C (77 F), so, while pleasant, it wasn't hot by any means. A shower, a nap and a change of clothes later, we were back out, enjoying a walk along the beach:
Obviously, since I was the one with the camera, I'm absent from most of these pictures. We also discovered a small church/shrine dedicated to (translated) "The Metamorphosis/Transfiguration of the Savior" along with a nice little meditative area. Naturally, we lingered for a whiles:
Afterwards, we decided to pick up dinner. The hotel room had cooking implements (albeit somewhat limited) and a stove, so I offered to cook. It was a fairly simple affair - tarator (cucumber yogurt soup, flavored with dill and garlic) and herb potatoes, along with some white wine. Well, at least it was, until the power cut out.
For whatever reason, the power to our room shut off. A bit alarmed, we went to try to find the owners, unsuccessfully. We asked the other guests (who turned out to be mostly Bulgarian) as to their location, only to find them as clueless as we were. I went back to dealing with supper, Milena went to track them down (since she was a better candidate for rounding up assistance from the other Bulgarian guests), and discovered that the entire bottom floor was without power. After the owners were located, power was quickly restored; we ate and cleaned up.
Following that, tired and happy, we went for a short walk, and then to bed.
Day 2
Having decided that we'd go check out the church after breakfast, we did just that:
Obviously, I couldn't take pictures of the interior, since they really frown on that sort of thing. It was a jewel box, though. Typical of most Orthodox churches, the walls were covered in iconography and biblical scenes. There was also a great deal of gilt-work. Following a walk to areas previously unexplored (including past the local cemetery), there was more beach time:
I loves me some panoramic shots:
More Milena/beach shots:
As before, after beach time, we were a bit hungry, so we went to get dinner. This time, I decided to do something a bit fancier - shrimp with wine lemon cream sauce over farfalle, garnished with lemon and dill, accompanied by white wine and bread. I'd never tried anything of the sort, but it came out pretty well:
Later, we went for another walk and spent some time watching the water, as well as a bat go for various bugs. It got amazingly close to use at several points, but a) I didn't have my camera on me, and b) I'm not sure it's fast enough to reliably capture something as fast-/erratically-moving as a bat.
Still, another nice capstone to another nice day.
Day 3
Instead of eating at Assamaris for breakfast again, we had some pastries that Milena had picked up the previous evening while I was cooking (no pictures, but they were tasty). I really wish I were better at working with filo pastry, because I do so enjoy the pastries of Asia Minor and surrounding areas (mmmm, baklava...)
After bit of a tiff (I'll elaborate later) we took another trip to the church and wandered in silence for a little whiles. In the meantime, we found the amphitheater (well, more like actually went to check it out, since it's right next to the tiny church of the Metamorphosis).
From the perspective of the audience:
From the actors' perspective:
Milena loves palm trees, therefore, I took many pictures of her with them (obviously):
This house had so many kitschy things on the lawn, etc., that I had to take a couple pictures:
I have no idea what this plant is (cactus or emerging palm tree, or what, but it's pretty massive):
Tiny little lemon tree:
And further illustration of the clarity and beauty of the water:
There was no swimming (since there was no hot water, for whatever reason), but we did go out and get some sun. I neglected to put sunscreen on my torso, so I got slightly burned, but nothing too serious.
After a long talk to resolve the lingering tension between us, we went to get money to pay for the hotel (the next day) and dinner (that night), only to get caught in a sudden afternoon downpour. Milena had a problem with one of her cards (which alarmed and frustrated her), so I stepped up to cover (I'll admit, I like being able to do this occasionally).
After we changed shoes, we went for another walk in the hopes of finding a decent restaurant. Before we hit the beach strip, though, I took a bunch of pictures of the sunset:
And a couple of wildflower shots:
We got dinner at a nice little place that serves pretty damn good traditional food, and wasn't too pricey (relatively speaking, anyway) either. We split tzatziki, feta and politiki; she got midopilafo (mussels with rice), I got soutzoukakia (spiced meat patties in tomato sauce). There was also homemade bread, water, and ouzo. All in all, rather delicious (and extremely filling).
Leaving...
We woke up fairly early, since we wanted to catch the 10 AM bus back to Thessaloníki. We were also wanted to get breakfast at a cafe, for the sake of doing so. Once we'd checked out of the hotel and eaten, we went to the bus station, even though we had something like 45 minutes left. Rather than sit and wait the whole time, we went down to get one last look at the beach:
It turned out that we had just about perfect timing, since it was threatening rain (and sporadically raining) the whole morning we left Asprovalta. Once we got back to Thessaloníki and finally tracked down a cab to the train station, we still had about 3 hours to kill, so we checked our stuff at the station and went wandering.
...It's a wonderful way to pass the time in a new city.
We managed to stumble onto the Chinese import/export district (which was a little surreal), passed by a bazaar (of sorts) filled with what appeared to be mostly camping/survivalist gear, and found a decent little place for lunch. Greek salad, gyros, and beer (for me) and iced coffee (for her) - good times. Gyros are so much better than Bulgarian döners (at least in terms of richness), and I can tell I'll be missing them. I suspect it's largely because Greek pita is thicker/richer and they use meat other than chicken. Regardless, it was incredibly tasty and filling.
After lunch, we stopped by a church nearby the rail station - we would have gone in, but it was chained shut, since they were doing some sort of renovation in the back, I think. It might have been Agios Dimitrios, but I somehow doubt it (kinda wish I hadn't left my camera in the station).
The bus ride back was much less stressful, as the border queue was practically nonexistent. We still didn't get back to Sofia until about 9:15 (which meant that I had about an hour and a half to wait for my train back home), and Milena had another minor freakout when none of the ATMs in the bus station worked. Fortunately, she had time to run to the train station (while I safeguarded her luggage) to get the cash to get home. We spent the next half-hour enjoying each other's company and trying to figure out when we'd get to see each other again before saying goodbye as she got on the bus back to Ruse.
For my part, I caught the train back with no issues, got back home shortly before 1 AM, and passed out in fairly short order.
Today has been a low-key sorta day, and I like that. Tomorrow, it's back to the grind (but only for 7 more weeks), then summer vacation.
Life, as they say, is good.
Later, flipsiders.
On Wednesday, Milena and I met up in Sofia at 10:30 (as planned) in order to catch the 11:30 bus down to Thessaloníki. The problem? Everyone and their grandmother was trying to get down at the same time (what with Thursday being International Worker's Day). Thus, there were no tickets to be had. In addition, the next available tickets for Wednesday would have put us in Greece well after dark - for obvious reasons, we both wanted to make sure we got there during daylight hours. Accordingly, we headed back to Dupnitsa to stay at my place (after purchasing tickets for a 9 AM bus the next day).
We had been told to show up a half an hour early for the bus, so we woke up early on Thursday to catch the 5:42 to Sofia. This is supposed to be a fast train (and was correspondingly pricier). It showed up 20 minutes late and (because of various random stops) took about 40 minutes longer than it probably should have. The upshot of all of this was that we were both somewhat stressed when we arrived, slightly out of breath, at the bus station.
Turns out there was no need to worry, but when you're stuck on a train, unsure of when it'll actually get in and on an ever-tightening deadline, it's hard to remain perfectly calm.
The bus ride itself was long, punctuated by stopping for lunch and a queue at the border.
The first thing I noticed about getting further south was the existence of little clumps of poppies. They started showing up about 30 km (or so) from the border, and only increased the further we went. Almost as soon as we crossed over, I noticed changes in soil composition. It was almost as abrupt as crossing into southern Georgia - suddenly, the land was tan; sandy and dotted with yellow and red flowers throughout. As ubiquitous as the poppies were the olive trees. It's stereotypical, but it's also true. Grape vines, poppies, pine and olive trees and a mountainous landscape that feels ancient. You really get the sense that one people have been living here for thousands of years, mostly uninterrupted.
Upon arrival in Thessaloníki, we made reservations for our return trip and asked where we needed to go in order to get to Asprovalta. One extraneous cab ride (and €10) later, we got to the proper bus station (having been given the wrong station the first time).
Waiting at the station:
Once the bus got to Asprovalta, I kept an eye out for the place where we were supposed to be staying, without success. The bus was about to leave town when we asked them to stop, as the place was certainly supposed to be in town. Fortunately, there was someone who spoke a bit of English at the place where we stopped, and they put us in touch with a local hotel owner offered her help.
...Turns out that the place where I thought we were supposed to stay was completely unknown to any of the locals, leaving us with a dilemma: we had nowhere to stay, most of the town was booked, night was fast approaching and we were both exhausted. Maria (who runs the Assamaris hotel) talked to the owners of the Litsa House just up the street, made sure they had a room, told them give us the low season rate (it's currently the mid season) and told us we could stop by for breakfast (€5.50/person, but still).
Here's where we ended up staying:
And the view down the street on which we were staying:
After a much-needed night's sleep, we went and got breakfast at Assamaris; fruit, break with cheese, granola, juice and coffee. It was taken on the lawn, in the sun - an auspicious start to the day. We followed it up with wandering around for a bit, to get a sense of the town's layout.
First, the beach:
You can see the church of Agios Georgios (St. George, or Άγιος Γεώργιος for you purists) in the background, here:
Yours truly:
I love the layered effect of the mountains, here:
Some shots of Milena:
And some poppies:
This house really caught our attention:
And someone clearly has a sense of humor, here:
We went to check out the church (also called Agios Georgios), but didn't go in immediately (improperly dressed):
Milena and I:
Orange trees were a pretty common sight:
We went back to the hotel, changed, and actually went to really enjoy the beach (as opposed to just sort of wandering about). The water, as you can see from the pictures up there a ways, is a rich blue/blue-green and wonderfully clear. It's also freaking COLD. At this point, the suns of summer have not yet warmed the Aegean, so it's a wee bit nippy. Needless to say, this did not stop me from enjoying myself. Even Milena (who can't swim) jumped in a bit. Granted, I had to help her, but she still got in. I helped her float a little bit, so with time, I might be able to help her get over her fear of water/drowning. After a few hours, the wind started getting to us - it was maybe 25 C (77 F), so, while pleasant, it wasn't hot by any means. A shower, a nap and a change of clothes later, we were back out, enjoying a walk along the beach:
Obviously, since I was the one with the camera, I'm absent from most of these pictures. We also discovered a small church/shrine dedicated to (translated) "The Metamorphosis/Transfiguration of the Savior" along with a nice little meditative area. Naturally, we lingered for a whiles:
Afterwards, we decided to pick up dinner. The hotel room had cooking implements (albeit somewhat limited) and a stove, so I offered to cook. It was a fairly simple affair - tarator (cucumber yogurt soup, flavored with dill and garlic) and herb potatoes, along with some white wine. Well, at least it was, until the power cut out.
For whatever reason, the power to our room shut off. A bit alarmed, we went to try to find the owners, unsuccessfully. We asked the other guests (who turned out to be mostly Bulgarian) as to their location, only to find them as clueless as we were. I went back to dealing with supper, Milena went to track them down (since she was a better candidate for rounding up assistance from the other Bulgarian guests), and discovered that the entire bottom floor was without power. After the owners were located, power was quickly restored; we ate and cleaned up.
Following that, tired and happy, we went for a short walk, and then to bed.
Having decided that we'd go check out the church after breakfast, we did just that:
Obviously, I couldn't take pictures of the interior, since they really frown on that sort of thing. It was a jewel box, though. Typical of most Orthodox churches, the walls were covered in iconography and biblical scenes. There was also a great deal of gilt-work. Following a walk to areas previously unexplored (including past the local cemetery), there was more beach time:
I loves me some panoramic shots:
More Milena/beach shots:
As before, after beach time, we were a bit hungry, so we went to get dinner. This time, I decided to do something a bit fancier - shrimp with wine lemon cream sauce over farfalle, garnished with lemon and dill, accompanied by white wine and bread. I'd never tried anything of the sort, but it came out pretty well:
Later, we went for another walk and spent some time watching the water, as well as a bat go for various bugs. It got amazingly close to use at several points, but a) I didn't have my camera on me, and b) I'm not sure it's fast enough to reliably capture something as fast-/erratically-moving as a bat.
Still, another nice capstone to another nice day.
Instead of eating at Assamaris for breakfast again, we had some pastries that Milena had picked up the previous evening while I was cooking (no pictures, but they were tasty). I really wish I were better at working with filo pastry, because I do so enjoy the pastries of Asia Minor and surrounding areas (mmmm, baklava...)
After bit of a tiff (I'll elaborate later) we took another trip to the church and wandered in silence for a little whiles. In the meantime, we found the amphitheater (well, more like actually went to check it out, since it's right next to the tiny church of the Metamorphosis).
From the perspective of the audience:
From the actors' perspective:
Milena loves palm trees, therefore, I took many pictures of her with them (obviously):
This house had so many kitschy things on the lawn, etc., that I had to take a couple pictures:
I have no idea what this plant is (cactus or emerging palm tree, or what, but it's pretty massive):
Tiny little lemon tree:
And further illustration of the clarity and beauty of the water:
There was no swimming (since there was no hot water, for whatever reason), but we did go out and get some sun. I neglected to put sunscreen on my torso, so I got slightly burned, but nothing too serious.
After a long talk to resolve the lingering tension between us, we went to get money to pay for the hotel (the next day) and dinner (that night), only to get caught in a sudden afternoon downpour. Milena had a problem with one of her cards (which alarmed and frustrated her), so I stepped up to cover (I'll admit, I like being able to do this occasionally).
After we changed shoes, we went for another walk in the hopes of finding a decent restaurant. Before we hit the beach strip, though, I took a bunch of pictures of the sunset:
And a couple of wildflower shots:
We got dinner at a nice little place that serves pretty damn good traditional food, and wasn't too pricey (relatively speaking, anyway) either. We split tzatziki, feta and politiki; she got midopilafo (mussels with rice), I got soutzoukakia (spiced meat patties in tomato sauce). There was also homemade bread, water, and ouzo. All in all, rather delicious (and extremely filling).
We woke up fairly early, since we wanted to catch the 10 AM bus back to Thessaloníki. We were also wanted to get breakfast at a cafe, for the sake of doing so. Once we'd checked out of the hotel and eaten, we went to the bus station, even though we had something like 45 minutes left. Rather than sit and wait the whole time, we went down to get one last look at the beach:
It turned out that we had just about perfect timing, since it was threatening rain (and sporadically raining) the whole morning we left Asprovalta. Once we got back to Thessaloníki and finally tracked down a cab to the train station, we still had about 3 hours to kill, so we checked our stuff at the station and went wandering.
...It's a wonderful way to pass the time in a new city.
We managed to stumble onto the Chinese import/export district (which was a little surreal), passed by a bazaar (of sorts) filled with what appeared to be mostly camping/survivalist gear, and found a decent little place for lunch. Greek salad, gyros, and beer (for me) and iced coffee (for her) - good times. Gyros are so much better than Bulgarian döners (at least in terms of richness), and I can tell I'll be missing them. I suspect it's largely because Greek pita is thicker/richer and they use meat other than chicken. Regardless, it was incredibly tasty and filling.
After lunch, we stopped by a church nearby the rail station - we would have gone in, but it was chained shut, since they were doing some sort of renovation in the back, I think. It might have been Agios Dimitrios, but I somehow doubt it (kinda wish I hadn't left my camera in the station).
The bus ride back was much less stressful, as the border queue was practically nonexistent. We still didn't get back to Sofia until about 9:15 (which meant that I had about an hour and a half to wait for my train back home), and Milena had another minor freakout when none of the ATMs in the bus station worked. Fortunately, she had time to run to the train station (while I safeguarded her luggage) to get the cash to get home. We spent the next half-hour enjoying each other's company and trying to figure out when we'd get to see each other again before saying goodbye as she got on the bus back to Ruse.
For my part, I caught the train back with no issues, got back home shortly before 1 AM, and passed out in fairly short order.
Today has been a low-key sorta day, and I like that. Tomorrow, it's back to the grind (but only for 7 more weeks), then summer vacation.
Life, as they say, is good.
Later, flipsiders.
Labels:
adventures,
general goodness,
photodump,
travel,
vacation,
weekend update
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